Showing posts with label Surveying. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Surveying. Show all posts

Sunday, 27 September 2026

Correcting the links: Harold John Jenks

Harold Jenks, Fellow of the New Zealand Institute of Surveyors, was a member of the Tauranga Historical Society.


Harold Jenks’ drawing of the Waikato River Hydro-electric Scheme, taken from p. 167 of his memoir, The Wind in the Tussocks.  Image: Beth Bowden

A lot of effort went into the mapping and measurement of this country.  A lot of it still goes unnoticed or ignored, although among the processes of colonisation the work of nineteenth-century surveyors was both intrusive and consequential[1]; they knew their work would have practical, permanent effect.  They were also, perhaps, of all colonisers the most aware of their own shortcomings.  Surveyors like Harold Jenks were modest characters.

By the twentieth century, when Harold arrived in New Zealand, a seventeen year old youth, occupation “fitter”, who had embarked at Southampton in 1924, he still found a quite astonishing scope and scale for physical challenge, intellectual adventure, and – it has to be said - error correction.  Even after twenty years of painstaking study and challenging fieldwork, he had to adapt his project, the Waikato Hydro-Electric Scheme, to the fact that a 7.65 foot discrepancy in the assessed level of Lake Taupo had been established[2].

The seven North Island networks of local mean sea level datums (LVDs) relied on by surveyors from approximately 1950 until 2016.  Lake Taupo can be seen near-centre of the Moturiki network.  Image: Toitū Te Whenua | Land Information New Zealand

Harold was equal to this.  In his memoir he says he “has forgotten now” how the construction plans for the “hydraulic structures” were adapted to the new, “identifiable and acceptable” [3] datum.  For him the great thing was confidence.  Plans could be made; great works could be engineered.  Fundamental to these plans and works was an accurate survey.

Survey party, 1927.  Harold in the centre with two chainmen.  Image: Historical Review, Vol. 34, No. 1, May 1986

As a very young man, with few-to-no formal qualifications, on his own in a new country, Harold showed considerable confidence.  His long life (he was 101 when he died) saw his chosen profession change from one where a would-be surveyor took a cadetship, “serv[ing] under articles to a qualified surveyor”[4] to a time when only a university qualification would do.  But his experience as an articled cadet, “a rather rough school”[5], linked him more closely to the nineteenth-century surveyors.  They became the subject of his first book, Forgotten Men: The Survey of Tauranga and District 1864 – 1869[6], published by the Tauranga Historical Society in 1991.

Harold had joined the Society shortly after his retirement, when he and his wife Gwen left Wellington to re-settle in Mount Maunganui.  He was an active member: on the debating team that went to Rotorua to argue “That photographs are the best means of recording history”; leading a Society members' outing to see the Waikato power sites; distributing the Historical Review in Mount Maunganui; and eventually becoming one of three Vice-Presidents in 1990.  He thus came into contact with Alan Bellamy, who, like Harold, had made his way up the ranks of his chosen profession (rail transportation) and, on his retirement, joined the THS.  Alan had developed an interest in old photographs and printing work; his Society task at the time was to collate articles from Tauranga for eventual publication in the Review. The two men had a lot in common.istorical Society to publish the

 

 

 

 

Harold had already contributed a couple of well-crafted articles for the Review[7].  His next effort, a comprehensive account of the men who undertook the first surveys of Tauranga, had however grown well beyond the limits of a magazine story.  In 1988 Alan Bellamy got the Society’s approval to publish the manuscript, carefully illustrated with photographs and fold-out maps and documents, as a monograph costing $12 a copy: “pre-publication orders would be sought”[8]. 

Thus encouraged by Alan, Harold’s pride in his chosen calling found a means of impersonal expression:

But who were these men, the Kai-ruuri Whenua who first measured this land, appraised it, considered its access and ran the road lines; who planned and marked out the boundaries of the town lots and the farm areas; who laid down a pattern of development which still shows through clearly after the passage of 130 years?

What brought them to Tauranga, what experiences befell them while here and what became of them when their work was finished?

Very little has been written about them and only a few are known by name.

Surveyor’s chain, 66 links, each link measuring one foot.  The 22 yard-length (“one chain”) was used not only for boundary measurements, expressed as “x chains and y links” but also for the length of a cricket pitch.  Image: Rob Morgenstern

Local historical scholarship owes much to inquiries of this kind.  Writing from his perspective as an English-born, New Zealand-trained professional, the links Harold provides to the past evoke a sense of landscape that, as it was measured, confined by a history of chains and links, so became man-made, and subject to human error.  He also offers some account of older, equally human, understandings of topography, distance and land use[9]. 

Local historical researchers often find that these overlap each other.  They are not only linked; they invite us to consider the need for correction and a more reliable datum.  Harold would, I think, approve.



[1]  See, for instance, https://maorigis.nz/ for a website intended to assist contemporary Māori researchers working with both historical and current land surveys.

[2] Jenks, H. J., The Wind in the Tussocks, New Zealand Institute of Surveyors Inc, 2002, p. 45

[3]  ibid

[4]  Jenks, H. J. Recollections of a Surveyor, Historical Review, Vol. 34, No. 1, May 1986, p. 1

[5] ibid

[6] I am indebted to John Coster for the gift of a copy of this book

[7] Recollections of a Surveyor, Historical Review, Vol. 34, No. 1, May 1986, and The Maraetai Ferry, The Story of Waka Mahi – A Versatile Craft, Historical Review, Vol. 46, No. 1, May 1998

[8] Minutes of the Tauranga Historical Society, 8 September 1988

[9] See, for example, Chapter 2.16, Maori anitquities, at pp. 156-164 of The Wind in the Tussocks

Sunday, 23 March 2025

The Otūmoetai Beachfront Pathway - Four Early Walkers

A map of the Otūmoetai Peninsula by the late Tauranga historian Alistair Matheson

Otūmoetai Peninsula’s beachfront path has been a major thoroughfare for Māori visitors and residents for centuries.  Walkers traversed a level and pleasant path of approximately two miles – often through groves of ngaio trees - from the Wairoa River entrance to the Waikareao Estuary entrance, just as they do today. Tauranga is a region of peninsulas and estuaries and accessing the peninsula path was not always an easy task.

Before the 1860s and the Tauranga War (1864) and Bush War (1867), Māori and Pākehā overlanders walking south through Waihi and Katikati or over the Kaimai Ranges from the Waikato would, from the Te Puna Peninsula, walk or canoe across the Wairoa River to access the walkway. Travellers trekking northwards from locations like Lake Taupō and the East Coast/Western Bay of Plenty, would first visit the Te Papa mission station before crossing the Waikareao Estuary to access the path.

Travellers in both directions often overnighted at Otūmoetai Pā, the district's Māori and Pākehā-Māori commercial hub. Also known as ‘The Capital of Tauranga’ before the 1860s, the pā was located approximately half-way along the path from the long abandoned Matuaiwi Pā. Early Pākehā travellers who trod the beachfront path included Rev. Henry Williams (1828-1832), Bishop Pompallier (1840 and 1841), Treaty of Waitangi official Thomas Bunbury (1840) and Captain Byron Drury of HMS Pandora, who surveyed the harbour in November 1852. The recollections of four additional walkers are described below.

John Carne Bidwill, Botanist,  1838.

On 3 July 1838, travelling English botanist John Carne Bidwell and his party of Māori porters crossed the Kaimai range to the Te Puna peninsula, from where he was carried at low tide ‘half a mile’ over the Wairoa Rivers dangerous outer crossing ‘on the shoulders of one of the natives’. During his walk to Otūmoetai Pā, he said:  ‘a mob of slaves and boys began to twitch my clothes and gun as I passed along, and make all kinds of impertinent remarks; however, I walked on as fast as I could... and after about a mile got rid of all but the most determined of my persecutors’.1

From Otūmoetai Pā, Bidwill observed a visiting taua (Maori war party) ‘perfectly friendly with the Tawranga tribe’, leave the fortress for the Waikareao crossing at first light ‘as did they not leave at the time of low water, they would have about a dozen miles further to march’. He also noted that when any allied war parties traversed the Otūmoetai walkway, Tauranga’s resident traders, including those along the path like James Farrow and later, John Lees Faulkner, ‘took all possible precautions to prevent robbery, even to the locking of their stockades, and securing in them such bulky articles as canoes and boats, which would otherwise have been very probably taken away or destroyed’.2 Unfortunately, no images of John Carne Bidwill have survived.

Lady Mary Ann Martin, 1846

Lady Mary Ann Martin, c1860s

Another early beachfront traveller was the intrepid semi-invalid, Lady Mary Ann Martin, author of Our Māoris (1884), a New Zealand best seller in its day. During October 1846, she accompanied her husband William - New Zealand’s first Chief Justice, on a journey from Auckland to Rotorua via Tauranga. During their crossing of the Kaimai Range by way of the Wairere Track, Mary Ann  Martin was carried by Māori bearers while lying on a stretcher. She recorded that after, finding herself in a vertical position on several occasions during the ascent, with sheer drops below, she instructed her bearers to tie her to the stretcher:

By one p.m. we had passed through the forest, and came out on a wide plain, from which we saw the sea and coast, stretching far away, and a mountain at the entrance of the harbour standing out against the blue sky; but our fatigues were not over: we knocked about till dark in a whale-boat on a rough sea, and when we landed the first sight that greeted us was a raging fire in the pah [Otūmoetai]. My bearers put me down on the beach, and rushed off to help extinguish the flames.

A kind Maori woman, whose English husband was away, received us into her house, and gave us bread and coffee, and when, after stumbling along [the walkway] in the dark to the crossing-place and shouting across [the Waikareao Estuary to the Te Papa Mission Station] in vain for a boat, we returned to her, she brought out a pile of new blankets and made a bed for us on the floor. About midnight, however, our host, Archdeacon Brown, arrived, and soon after we reached his comfortable Mission-house. After ten nights in the bush, an English bedroom seemed a great luxury.

I stayed for three weeks at Tauranga, while my husband went on to the hot springs. The house was all of native workmanship; the outer walls were of raupo, and the inner walls and ceilings reeded after the best Maori pattern. The windows of the bedroom were overhung with roses.3

The house where Lady Martin and her husband found temporary refuge, was that of the trader and shipwright John Lees Faulkner - the ‘kind Maori woman’ being his wife Ruawahine. Their house, store and shipyard were located on her land at Okorore, a one acre property located about a half mile east of Otūmoetai Pā on what is today’s Beach Road. The Martins and their Maori porters were returned to the Te Puna Peninsula on Rev Alfred Brown’s whaleboat, from where they retraced their route to Auckland. The Faulkner house has been relocated at Tauranga’s Historic Village).4

An Anonymous Walker, 1859

Appearing in the newspaper New Zealander in April 1859 - one month before Ferdinand Von Hochstetter and Ernest Dieffenbach’s scientific expedition visited Tauranga – the following article was written by an unidentified overland traveller.

Leaving the Mission Station and proceeding westward for Otumoiti village, you have to be ferried over the other boat channel [the Waikareao Estuary], and, in making for the village, cross a sandy plain on which is a large, but for the present deserted, native settlement. At Otumoiti there is a considerable settlement, and the Roman Catholic Church, of native structure, is elaborately decorated in the most artistic native manner.

On the beach are the house and stores of Mr. Faulkner, who has resided here for many years, and from whom and Mrs. Faulkner the travellers receive'd a hearty welcome. A short distance further on is the store of Mr. Farrow, and on the opposite side of the harbour is the residence of Captain Sellers (of the cutter “Comet,") who trades along the East Coast. No other Europeans, that we are aware, are regular residents at Tauranga at present; but it is to be hoped that their numbers will soon have an increase, and that they will have the " White Swan" steaming into this noble harbour, and affording them the means of speedy communication with Auckland.5

Ferdinand Von Hochstetter, 1859

Ferdinand Von Hochstetter

A noted geologist and writer, Von Hochstetter was appointed to the Austrian round the world scientific expedition in 1857. Arriving at Auckland on the frigate Novara  in December 1858, he, the naturalist Ernest Dieffenbach (who had previously visited Tauranga in 1841), and his scientific party visited many central North Island locations including Taupō and Rotorua. Returning overland to Auckland via Maketu and Tauranga, Von Hochstetter and his companions were welcomed at the Te Papa Mission Station by the Rev Karl Volkner and his wife Emma. Departing after a two day stay he recorded on 12 May 1859:

Kind Mrs. Voelkner had baked some fresh bread and prepared an excellent roast-pork for our benefit on the road; and thus most liberally provided with food, we again parted from a Mission house, the kind and hospitable inhabitants of which I shall never forget. We crossed the Waikareao Creek in a boat, and thence passed over a sandy plain through a deserted Pah in a north-westerly direction along the shores of the harbour, which presents the character of a shallow estuary with, many inlets and studded with numerous islands, separated from the sea only by a row of sandhills, and extends, at an average breadth of two to three miles, in a N.W. direction, as far as the Katikati river, a distance of 15 miles.

After a short hour's walk we reached the Otumoetai Pah (others spell it Otumoiti), one of the principal settlements on Tauranga Harbour, at the same time the seat of a Roman Catholic mission. The church of the place is of a very neat construction; there are also some Europeans settled here. On the beach lay a number of beautiful war-canoes; and next to them a schooner, belonging to the Maoris, which they had bought for £500, leaving it afterwards to rot and decay.

From Otumoetai we came over excellent, fertile alluvial plains to the Wairoa Bay. The Bay is very shallow, and the sandy rather than muddy ground so firm, that, although the tide had already half set in, we could without danger wade through to Peterehema (Bethlehem)... How very different everything here will look in after-years, when a European City shall rise on the Tauranga Harbour, and the beautiful country round about be dotted with flourishing farms.6

References

1 Bidwill, John, Rambles in New Zealand, W.S. Orr and Co. London, 1841: Capper Reprint 1974:  79-81.

2 Ibid.

3Martin, Mary Ann, Our Maoris, E. and J. B. Young, London, 1884: 98-99.

4 Matheson, A. H; ‘Otumoetai Pa and the Early Days in Tauranga’, Journal of the Tauranga Historical Society (Inc.), August - September 1975, No. 54: 14.

5 New Zealander, 2 April 1859: 3.

6 Von Hochstetter, Ferdinand, New Zealand: Its Physical Geography, Geology and Natural History, J.G. Cotta, Stuttgart, 1867: 445-446.

Images

Matheson, Alistair, ‘Otumoetai Pa and the Early traders in Tauranga, Part II’, Journal of the Tauranga Historical Society (Inc.), August-September 1975, No.54. OT (2) 3.

Bartlett & Co. (Auckland): Lady Mary Ann Martin (1817-1884) PA2-0195. National Library, Wellington New Zealand

Dauthage, Adolf, 1825-1883. Dauthage, Adolf, 1825-1883 :Ferdinand R. Hochstetter 1859, aged 28.. Haast, Julius von: In memoriam. Ferdinand R. Hochstetter. Dunedin, J. McKay, 1884. Ref: PUBL-0135-front. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/23162756

Friday, 24 June 2022

Richard Coles Jordan (1838-1919)

Richard Coles Jordan, Mayor of Tauranga 1882-3, 1885-6
Courtesy of Tauranga City Libraries, Ref. Photo 21-1852

This early Tauranga settler lived a reasonably long and rather fruitful life. He came to Te Papa somewhere between 1866 and 1872 and eventually fathered four sons and three daughters. A surveyor by profession, he was engaged by the Town Board as their first engineer to build the Beach Road, now our Strand. In 1873 he was the first to drive a horse and dray over the road to Ohinemutu in Rotorua, and was described as a roading contractor. Following his journey, locals were keen to see the establishment of a mail service on this route. New roads in those days were paved with firstly sand and then shell.

He continued surveying for a living until at least 1874 but was soon owner of a Bond Store and described himself as land agent, auctioneer and stock agent, reputedly the only one of the latter between Katikati and Opotiki. The first Judea sale yards (still operating in the 1980s*) were a venture of his, and he held an initial sale of cattle there in 1876. His residential address in 1880 was “West side of Strand, between Harrington and MacLean Streets.”

17 Oct 1883  Letter from J Mann to Matravers reminding him the longer goods stayed at Jordan [and Sheppards] the more they will be [ruinous]
Courtesy of Tauranga City Libraries, Ref Ams 12/2/7

From 1882 to 1915 Tauranga mayors were elected annually and RC Jordan was the second, following George Vesey Stewart. He held the office for two terms, in 1882 and again in 1885. Due to a fire in his premises he was forced to declare bankruptcy in early 1883, but was soon solvent again. He won the seat back from Thomas Wrigley nearly three years later. He was in office during the Tarawera eruption on the 10th June 1886 and called to Auckland for help for our citizens as he was concerned about the falling ash

16 Oct 1883 Telegram sent to officer in charge Customs, states that Mann’s Warehouse is approved and Jordan’s revoked.
Courtesy of Tauranga City Libraries, Ref Ams 12/2/1

It is important to note that another prominent citizen of Tauranga, also named Jordan, was elected Mayor five times, he was Canon Charles Jordan, vicar of Holy Trinity.

RC was later a member of the County Council representing the Waimapu Riding. He took an interest in the Acclimatisation Society, the Agricultural and Pastoral Society and called for expressions of interest in forming a Young Farmers Group.

Richard’s wife was Kate and they both appear on the ratepayers register for 1908 along with sons Cyril, a storekeeper, and his wife M(….), and Arthur, a surveyor, and his wife Jesse. The following year Cyril owned his father’s plot of land and at least by 1916 it seems that of this Jordan family only he and his wife remained in the area.

There is a small street off the West end of 9th Ave named after one of the Jordan residents, more likely RC.

*Please see post on Judea sale yards by Beth Bowden dated 23 August 2019

Sources

Tauranga 1882-1982, The Centennial of Gazetting Tauranga as a Borough, Edited by A.C Bellamy

Pae Koroki, courtesy Tauranga City libraries:
Tauranga Historical Journal No. 15 1961
Tauranga Rates Books 1907, 1916
Tauranga Street Directory 1880                                          

Geni  Family Tree

Friday, 22 April 2022

HMS Pandora and Captain Byron Drury, November 1852

Early Sailing Vessels and Visitors to Tauranga, Part XX

Built and launched at Woolwich Dockyard on the River Thames in 1833, the 318 ton HMS Pandora was a medium sized naval vessel with a length of 90 feet.  A 3-gun packet brig, it initially served in British waters as a coast guard vessel and naval personnel and freight transport until converted to a survey ship in 1845.

In 1850, the Admiralty dispatched Captain Byron Drury and the Pandora to the South Pacific to complete the marine survey of New Zealand, begun by Captain J. Lort Stokes and HMS Acheron between 1848 and 1851. Noted for their detail and accuracy, British naval charts were the consequence of long, tedious surveys and Drury and HMS Pandora remained in New Zealand waters until June 1856. During 1852 the Pandora surveyed the Bay of Plenty Coast, during which the ship’s boats were used to survey its small harbours and bar-protected rivers. In early November of that year, Drury took HMS Pandora through the Mount Maunganui channel entrance to anchor in Pilot Bay. The vessel remained for 23 days while the hydrographic survey of Tauranga Harbour was completed. 

‘HMS Pandora’ by Thomas Hornbrook, 17 February 1851
Auckland Art Gallery, Toi O Tamaki Collection, Ref. 1916/12

Tauranga’s harbour charts were collated under the direction of one of the Royal Navy’s most experienced and discerning hydrographers. Entering the Royal Naval College in 1828, Byron Drury served on a variety of battle ships and saw action in Brazil and China. During the 1830s, he was involved in surveys as far apart as Northern Brazil’s Para River and South Australia’s Port Essington. In 1841, he received his officer’s commission and for the remainder of that decade, was involved in surveys including China’s Yangtse River and the West Coast of Scotland.

Captain Byron Drury, Photograph by Greetham Brothers, Woolwich, 1861
Auckland War Memorial Museum, Ref. PH-2014-171

In 1856, the reports on the New Zealand surveys conducted by HMS Acheron and HMS Pandora were published in London as The New Zealand Pilot. Drury’s November 1852 Tauranga survey report, was also published in New Zealand newspapers at the time. It included some of the following observations:

“The Bay of Plenty is the long extent of coast comprised between Mercury bay and cape Runaway, near the East cape: a line drawn between these two points measures 120 miles, and the greatest depth of the bay from such a line is about 40 miles. There are a number of islands and detached rocks in this extensive bay; the only anchorage in it of importance, and which offers shelter for any vessel larger than a coaster, is Tauranga harbour.

“The difficulty of entering this harbour through the deepest channel, is its somewhat tortuous course, and the liability to eddy winds on rounding Mount Monganui; the channel in one place being only half a cable's length wide; but with those winds which would make the Bay of Plenty a lee shore, Tauranga harbour is the most accessible, and when once inside there is anchorage for a fleet.

“The entrance to the harbour lies north and south; the eastern head is the remarkable flat-topped hill Monganui, rising abruptly from the sandy shore to a height of 860 feet: the western entrance is formed by low undulating sand-hills, which extend 13 miles northward to Kati-Kati river; one mile north-westward of Monganui, a spit with 9 feet extends eastward from the western sandy shore for a mile; this spit generally breaks.

“The approach to Tauranga harbour is remarkably distinct. Vessels bound to it from the northward should bring the south end of Mayor island to bear north, steering a south course; the high flat-topped hill of Monganui will first appear like an island: on this course, Karewha, a small rugged island, bearing from the entrance of the harbour N.N. W. 1/2 W. 6 miles, will be passed on the outside about 3 miles, in 23 fathoms.

“Above Te-Papa there is only a boat channel amid extensive flats, and 3 miles above, it narrows again into a small but deep river, running to the southward, which is navigable for boats for 15 miles, and by it a journey can be accomplished to the Rotorua lakes in less than two days. Te-Papa is the Protestant mission station;  the site is well chosen on elevated ground, on the south side of the harbour, three miles from Monganui; two miles westward of it is Otumoiti village, where there is a Roman Catholic mission establishment. and a very neat church, the interior gorgeously decorated by Native wicker-work. ' Four or five Englishmen reside here, chiefly engaged in building small craft, and I am informed, three Frenchmen live at the mouth of the Wairoa.

“The total native population of the Tauranga district is estimated at 1,000, and large tracts of land are under cultivation; fresh water can be obtained just within Stony point in small quantities, and pigs and poultry may be had from the natives at reasonable prices.

“During the twenty-three days H.M.S. Pandora was at anchor in Tauranga harbour in the month of November it blew very fresh, and almost continually from the S.W., but such strong winds were considered unusual.

“Tides: It is high water at full and change 7h 10m, range of tide 6 feet: the strength of the tides at springs is 3 knots; in the narrow channel at Stony point it may attain 4 knots.

“From Tauranga harbour, the coast, which is a uniform sandy beach, runs E. b. S. for 15 miles to Kaituna river. The land between is covered with fern, and low, with the exception of two hill ranges of 600 and 800 feet, which rise one mile inland and extend to the S.W.;--a remarkable flat-topped range of hills about 1,000 feet high rises 10 or 12 miles inland of Tauranga, and extends in a north-westerly direction.

“Moititi Island lies 4 1/2 miles off this sandy coast, there are 12 fathoms water midway between it and the shore.”

Published by the British Admiralty in 1857, this hydrographic shows locations including Otumoetai and the Te Papa mission station where Drury and his officers were regularly hosted by Alfred and Charlotte Brown.
Admiralty Chart no 2521, Tauranga Harbour, New Zealand
Archives. Ref. ADOE 16621 MW676 Box 1/3A 2521

At the end of the Pandora’s New Zealand survey in 1856, Byron Drury was thanked and recommended to the British Admiralty by Governor, Sir George Grey. On his departure from Auckland, Drury received a testimonial and a service of silver plate from the Chamber of Commerce and local citizens. The South Auckland settlement of Drury was named after him and on his return to Britain, he became a fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, with promotions to rear admiral in 1875 and to vice admiral in 1879.  Tauranga residents commemorated his visit and survey by renaming the hill Hopukiore on Maunganui Spit, Mount Drury.

On her return to Britain, HMS Pandora resumed her original role as coastguard watch vessel around England. Sold by the Admiralty in 1862, her name passed to a succession of larger Royal Navy vessels.

Sources

New Zealand Spectator and Cook’s Strait Guardian, 18 June, 1853: 4.

Morgan, William, The Journal of William Morgan: Pioneer Settler and Maori War Correspondent, Nona Morris (ed.), Auckland City Council, Auckland 1963: 110.

Richards, Captain G.H. and Mr. F.J. Evans, R.N. (comp.), The New Zealand Pilot: From Surveys made in H.M. Ships Acheron and Pandora, Captain J. Lort Stokes and Commander Byron Drury, Potter, J.D. London 1856: 75-79.