Friday 28 August 2020

Placement and Replacement - The Te Puna Memorial Hall

Until the deadline for this blog, the end of the week in which the new Te Puna Memorial Hall was opened, it had never occurred to me that I would follow in the footsteps of Mrs N. Heard (née Lochhead). At a 1948 meeting of the Te Puna branch of the Women’s Division of Federated Farmers (now known as Rural Women) she “spoke of ... the planning, building and final opening and dedicating of the district’s Hall as a memorial to those who fell in the first world war.” [1]  At the time of her address, the Hall had been in place for 26 years. And a poignant set of new memorials was required.  The granite tablet listing the names of those who fell in WWII was put alongside the WWI memorial in 1947. As she spoke, money was being collected for another, to commemorate those who served [2].

 
The original Hall was a prodigious undertaking for a district that had been in existence for just over four decades [3]. Planning for it began in 1920, and many a fundraising idea was entertained after the Armstrongs donated a corner of their land [4], the site of the Hall for the next 94 years. “Entertained” was the operative word. People were asked to dance and to sing [5] at many socials, held in the Te Puna Schoolroom; to subscribe [6]; and to purchase posts made from gum trees felled on the site [7]. By July 1922 the floor space of the Hall – 48 feet by 28 feet – had been decided and the timber had started to arrive.

Timber stacked in the course of dismantling the original Hall, September 2016
The cost of the original Hall was estimated to be about £250, most of which was materials: the labour was provided by volunteers [8]. Much reliance was placed on the expertise of master builder David Borell, but he found he had to divide his attention between overseeing the Hall building and his rugby-playing commitments [9]. It is no wonder that a number of locals feel that an ancestor of theirs can claim to be “builder” of the Hall [10].

Memorial halls are part of a beloved tradition in New Zealand, most aptly illustrated in Fiona Jack’s beautiful website that shows 65 variations on the theme [11]. The original Te Puna Memorial Hall was one of our earliest examples. Its vernacular design and the level of community contribution involved in its creation were very different from the effort required for the replacement Hall. 

Both the original Hall and the new one, however, were created from one compelling need: the “close settlement” of Te Puna as a part of “Tauranga County” (in the words of the BP Times editor on 31 July 1922 [12]). By 2016 the pressures on State Highway 2 had made the intersection, close to the old Hall, so dangerous as to require the construction of a large roundabout to manage the traffic volumes from Minden and Te Puna Roads on to the main highway.

None of what followed that decision was easy for the twenty-first century Hall Committee. And the history of the past four years is a subject for a later historian. Nevertheless, the ultimate strength of the creation of an important, and continuing, community amenity is to some extent told by the images of the original being dismantled, and the new one created. Taking the Hall down proved the quality of its workmanship and its materials. It could have stood for another century.

The last gable standing

Care was taken to preserve the clean lines and angles of the original building ...

The new Hall takes shape

... and the community base that it sprang from.

Inscription in the Hall floor, October 2019

There are some satisfactions that the first Hall users might like. Some of the timber used in the construction of the old Hall has been used to create a lectern for the stage and two finely-made tables for the meeting rooms. The old Hall had a stage, but no lectern; and it had no meeting rooms at all. The new Hall occupies a site that could not be closer to that of the original, and it has been built on what was formerly Armstrong land [13].

The new Hall, August 2020
 References

[1] https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/BOPT19480914.2.60.5 . Unfortunately Mrs Heard’s actual address was not reported. 
[2] This went up in 1950. Several names were added subsequently, as can be seen by the different colour of the gilded lettering.
[3] I am counting from the first meeting of the Te Puna Highway District, 18 Dec 1875, held at W G Armstrong’s house: https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/BOPT18751218.2.3.3
[4] https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/BOPT19200601.2.17
[5] ibid
[6] https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/BOPT19200610.2.4
[7] Anecdote from Fred Milligan, Chairman of the Tauranga RSA, who spoke at the opening of the new Hall, 16 August 2020.
[8] https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/BOPT19221127.2.10
[9] https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/BOPT19220629.2.3
[10] Comments passed to the writer at the time of the Hall’s demolition, September/October 2016
[11] https://fionajack.net/living-halls-photos-fiona-jack/
[12] https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/BOPT19220731.2.5?
[13] This appellation of course ignores the fact that the whenua was, until raupatu, part of the Pirirakau rohe. We are indebted to the hapū for its generosity in supporting the creation and maintenance of this local memorial to the all the whānau of the district.

Friday 21 August 2020

Mick McMahon and the Talma Studio - Part 2

(continued from Part 1)

Mick McMahon with his four eldest children
Postcard format photograph taken at Te Karaka by Kate McMahon, c.1909-1910
Courtesy and collection of Jacquelyn McMahon
Michael McMahon soon announced that he would be opening in new premises on 24 June, located on the Strand between Tanner Bros' butchery and Bateman’s drapery, and called the “Talma Studios.”

The Strand, Tauranga. c.1914-1915. Unidentified photographer, possibly by Michael McMahon
Image courtesy of Tauranga Heritage Collection, Ref. 0608/08
Although the photograph above merely has “M. McMahon Hairdesser” above the shopfront, the rooms behind and above were commodious, well lighted and equipped with a modern camera and the requisite furniture. Mr Walter Menzies Bayne, with almost three decades of previous experience in Auckland and further afield, most recently with RH Bartlett, was appointed as manager of the photographic department, presumably the developing and printing side of the business.
NOTE: There were several other Talma Studios in New Zealand and Australia, and it seems likely that some at least were in imitation of Andrew Barrie’s Talma Studio in Melbourne, well known for catering to the theatrical establishment.

Mount Maunganui and Motuotau (Rabbit Island), Tauranga.
Postcard by Talma, Photographers. The M. McM. Series No. 46 (Michael McMahon)
Image courtesy and collection of Justine Neal
Meanwhile McMahon was “prepared to visit all parts of the Tauranga County” and did so. Over the next nine months he published several dozen numbered postcard views inscribed, “Talma. Photo.” with the series number on the front in white lettering (produced by writing in black ink on the negative). He used generic, commercially available “New Zealand Post Card – One Penny” cardstock with “THE M. McM. SERIES.” hand-stamped on the back in black ink, and almost certainly would have sold them directly from his hairdressing shop on the Strand. However, there are suggestions that he also supplied postcards in bulk to other vendors, since at least one example (see below) is known with "Post Card Wilson Photos Auckland" stamped on the reverse. William Thompson Wilson published postcards from a studio in Remuera, Auckland between 1910 and 1917.

Waikato Hounds in Tauranga, c. September 1914, by Michael McMahon
Postcard by Talma Studio. 41. (stamped “Wilson Photos” on verso)
Image courtesy of Tauranga Heritage Collection, Ref. 0208/09
By March 1915, however, McMahon had decided to leave Tauranga. He put his house up for sale and moved his family back to Poverty Bay. Tauranga probably wasn’t big enough to support two portrait photographic studios – and it’s clear that Meers concentrated on portraiture, although he too offered outside work – and the many of the clientele for his hairdressing shop were heading off to war.

Helping Cook. M. McM. 72. Posctard by Michael McMahon, c. 1916
Copy photograph courtesy and collection of Jacquelyn McMahon
Michael McMahon remained in Te Karaka and Gisborne for the rest of his life, operating a number of businesses. He appears to have continued with photography only for a couple of years, producing postcards showing views, local events and scenes of everyday life, the latter typified by the postcard view above. He died in Gisborne in 1953, aged 75, and is buried at Taruheru Cemetery.

Acknowledgements
I am grateful as ever for help from staff at Tauranga City Library, the Tauranga Heritage Collection and from genealogy volunteer Joy Edmonds. Marcel Safier of Brisbane kindly assisted with explaining the origins of the various Talma Studios in Australia. I am also indebted to Jacqui McMahon, granddaughter of Michael McMahon, who has shared her extensive family research and graciously allowed me to copy photos from her collection.

Sources
Papers Past
Electoral Rolls
Wise’s Directory
Auckland Library Photographers Database
Auckland Library Heritage Images

Friday 14 August 2020

American Whaling Vessels and John B. Williams

Early Sailing Vessels and Visitors to Tauranga – Part IX
American Whaling Vessels and John B. Williams


American whaling ships were prominent among the 2000 vessels known to have visited tribal New Zealand before the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. During their typical two year whaling voyages, these large vessels, which averaged 340 tons, not only reprovisioned at main trading ports like the Bay of Islands, Kapiti Island and Akaroa. Competing with English, French and colonial Australian vessels also seeking provisions, they also stood off every populated cape and peninsula and entered every bay and safe harbour to trade with Maori.

From the mid-1820s, smaller colonial Australian whaling-gun trading vessels like the Haweis, John Dunscombe and Prince of Denmark anchored off Motiti Island or entered Tauranga Harbour to trade with Ngai Te Rangi. Yankee whalers were also regular visitors to the Bay. One vessel stood off Whakatane to take on provisions and Maori sailors including the Ngati Awa warrior Hemi Paraone Te Waiwe. Another, with a large cargo of oil and whale bone, was driven ashore and wrecked to the east of Maketu as late as 1838. The cargo was plundered and the surviving crew enslaved by local tribes. Intriguingly, Ngai Te Rangi informed the missionary leader Henry Williams in 1825 that they had helped unload barrels from a large vessel within Tauranga harbour. This unidentified vessel (not the missionary vessel Herald which visited in 1826), was the first European vessel known to have visited Tauranga. The barrels likely contained rum, gunpowder or whale oil, the latter being a trade item prized by Maori.

A ship driven ashore on the New Zealand coast. In 1838, an American whaler with a cargo valued at US$10,000 was driven ashore during a fierce storm and wrecked in the Bay of Plenty
The American sailor John B. Williams of Salem, Massachusetts visited New Zealand and the Bay of Plenty aboard the whaler Tybee during 1832-1833. Later appointed by President Tyler as United States Consul at the Bay of Islands, Williams compiled a journal during his residence between 1842 and 1844. A combination of first hand observations, hearsay, fact and opinion, William’s journal nevertheless provides one of the first detailed pictures of the Bay of Plenty and its Islands, following Captain Cook’s first cursory description in 1779.
“The seacoast is mostly sand with bard [barred] harbours, only capable for small vessels to enter. The natives of these places were very treacherous often seizing small vessels and detain[ing] them taking property to a large amount. Should a vessel be so unfortunate as to get aground, going in or out of either of those places she is free for plunder and considered a lawful prize.

Of the Islands in the Bay of Plenty the first or northernmost one is Mairs [Tuhua or Mayor] Island, or Tuhua], high, sandy & covered with wood with a population of 200 natives subsisting chiefly on fish and mutton birds. When they are fearful of their enemies they retire to a flat top hill which is composed of loose rocks etc. These they tumble down on their enemies (that attempt to attack them) with great vengeance & effect. This island was formerly volcanic, having a large lagoon in the centre, doubtless has been the crater.

The next or inner island in the Bay is Flat Isld [Motiti] a little south of Touranga, is at present uninhabited, capable of cultivation, fine land of rich soil but no harbours. A small vessel can anchor between the island and the main, however the holding ground is not good being rocky bottom,

[An Island] known by the appelation of Moutohora lays about 7 miles from the mainland, highly elevated and one part is on fire, immense quantities of sulpher can be had (large cargoes). Around its shores are found excellent fish, and the natives frequently go from the main for that purpose. It has been noted and remarkable for black whale in great numbers. Whaling parties have been fitted out at very great expense, and often in danger of losing all their property. One season one whaling party was unsuccessful and came away leaving their property to whomsoever might think proper to use it. A rock about the size of a whale boat lies between Mair Island and Flat Island in a direct line between the two about midway."

Moutohora or Whale Island, Bay of Plenty

Williams journal casts light on the large sulphur deposits on Moutohora as well as the resident shore whalers.
"Fourth Island, so called, White Isld [Whakaari], has a volcanoe which is constantly burning, and issuing from it a very great smoke, which is often noticed to increase before a gale. It has a very large crater in the centre, running in from the east side. The level of the mouth of this crater is not more than 4 feet from the level of the sea. Here are to be found many kinds of variegated stones, with sulphur in large quantity. Pumice stone is also floating about the island, which must have been thrown out. It would be impossible for any person to remain on this island any great length of time (say a few hours) as the smell of sulphur is so exceedingly strong. The north part is covered with a scrub, and very bold water around the island, one or two small pyrimid rocks lay at some distance from it

1843. Touranga is said to be finest part of New Zealand; in this vicinity said to be a fine country and much level land about the sea coast, the soil very fertile. Potatoes & Corn are to be found in great abundance. And more flax has been dressed by its natives than by any others on the coast. 150 tons was procured for the Sydney market. Of late they have commenced salting pork.

Wood is very scarce, the plains are covered with nothing but fern, the hills being a great distance back, from where they are obliged to get wood. If indolence prevails they gather whatever may come in their way on the sea shore. Pipe clay is plentiful, covered with a very heavy black sand.

The Fishermen (natives) are very expert at Touranga, leaving early in the morning and returning late at night with a very great variety of fish, which that Bay is so much noted for its great variety. The whole of the long range of New Zealand Coast is abundantly supplied with beautiful fish.”
Of interest to modern day local fishermen, Williams included in his description of ‘beautiful fish’: hapuka, sting ray, flounder, snapper, kahawai, mullet, gurnard, tarakihi, crayfish and eel.

References
Bentley, Trevor, Pakeha Slaves, Maori Masters: The Forgotten Story of New Zealand’s White Slaves, New Holland, Auckland, 2019.
Mair, Gilbert, Reminiscences and Maori Stories, Brett, Auckland, 1923: 2.
McNab, Robert, From Tasman to Marsden: A History of Northern New Zealand from 1642 to 1818, Wilkie and Co, Dunedin, 1914.
Williams, John, B; The New Zealand Journal, 1842-1844 of John B. Williams of Salem, Massachusetts, Peabody Essex Museum, Salem, 1956: 39-45.

Images
Cuthbert Clarke, ‘The beaching of the French corvette L’Alcmene’, B-030-009. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington.
'Moutohora or Whale Island, Bay of Plenty.' Image provided courtesy of East Bay Aviation and White Island Flights.

Friday 7 August 2020

The Commercial Hotel, Whakatane

Whakatane, New Zealand, c. 1940s
Postcard published by N.S. Seaward's Studio, Broad Bay, Dunedin
Collection of Justine Neal
The original hotel was built at Waiorongomai near Te Aroha during the gold rush days, but as the gold petered out it was bought by Mr. E. L. Smith and was transported in sections to Whakatane in March 1893. The sections were shipped round the Coromandel peninsula and in spite of the scow which brought them getting stuck on the Whakatane Bar and nearly wrecked, they were eventually safely landed.

Mr. Smith’s license stated that he must have the hotel up and running by June of that year or he would lose his license. When it became obvious that he was running behind time he just erected the doorframe and door, complete with nameplate and sign and declared himself open for business. Thus Whakatane’s first bar was an open air one (an early forerunner of the beer garden!) while the walls gradually rose around it. The Licensing report in the Beacon 1 Jun 1894 described the hotel as, "E.L.Smith : owner. Renewal Particulars: Wooden house, iron roof, c and wf, prf. Four sitting and twelve bedrooms. 400 yards." The license was granted at a cost of 25 pounds. In the 1906 report two wire ladder escapes were required by the licensing committee.

Dominion Post, 20 February 1920
In the ensuing years the hotel passed through several owners. During the 1918 influenza epidemic, Billy Regan, the owner at the time, and seven of his guests and staff died. The hotel was advertised as far afield as the Dominion newspaper in Wellington, which must have paid off as a regular feature in the Bay of Plenty Beacon was the names of departing guests. Over the years four Governor Generals and their wives visited or stayed, along with tourists, travelling salesmen, businessmen etc.

Commercial Hotel, Whakatane, New Zealand, c. 1950s
Postcard published by N.S. Seaward's Studio, Broad Bay, Dunedin
Collection of Justine Neal
In early 1939 under the management of H.E.Cucksey the old hotel was demolished to make way for the New Commercial Hotel which incorporated features of the Spanish Mission style in its Art Deco façade, including curved balconies and pan tiled roof edges, its U shaped floor plan maximised light and air flow to the second floor rooms.

As reported by the Bay of Plenty Beacon the demolition was not without incident. On May 19 a car which was being cranked while in gear jumped the footpath and hit the concrete corner of the hotel. It was not a very heavy blow but general consensus was if the car had hit the old structure it might have sailed clean through it. The same month the paper reported on some wealthy rats living under the old floor of the bar portion of the hotel as workmen had discovered a rat’s nest with half a sovereign and a two shilling piece in it.

Bay of Plenty Beacon, 28 August 1939
By May 29 the demolition was practically complete with the site being cleared of timber and the concrete picked up. The recently built office and lounge was to be moved to the end of the annexe and joined to it as staff quarters. On 23 June an auction was held to sell, amongst other things 40,000 feet of timber, 30 doors and 30 sashes and frames from the dismantled hotel.

An article in the Bay of Plenty Beacon 21 July 1939 states, "With the removal of the timber from the old Commercial Hotel Mr. H. E. Cucksey is now free to carry his scheme of improvement to the grounds. It is intended to level the site of the old hotel and lay it down in lawns, on which will be constructed putting greens for the amusement of guests. The backyard will be improved and a drainage system laid down to The Strand." Mr. Cucksey was also given permission to erect a large neon lit sign advertising the hotel on the hillside near the entrance to The Strand for a five year term at 5 pound a year.

Whakatane, New Zealand, c. 1960s
Hand-coloured postcardpublished by N.S. Seaward's Studio, Broad Bay, Dunedin
Collection of Justine Neal
By the early 1960’s the Commercial Hotel was part of the Consolidated Hotels chain and my father Bill Fenton was the licensee for eighteen months. During this time the beautiful old BNZ building next door became part of the hotel. The two buildings were joined by a covered in passage way. The ground floor of the bank became the new public bar. The bar itself was 70’ by 30’ with a formica top. A flagon bar completely separate from the public bar was in one corner. Upstairs were twelve extra bedrooms each with a formica shower box and toilet. No more trekking down the corridor to the shared facilities! If you were lucky enough to be staying in the new wing.

I can’t help thinking that if the ghost of Mr. Smith was around he would have had a wry grin on his face at the crème de la crème: from the rear of the bank building to the back of the property was a 50’ beer garden, roofed with coloured Perspex and with a concrete footpath through it.

Whakatane, Bay of Plenty, New Zealand, c. early 2000s
Postcard published by The New Zealand Souvenir Co. Ltd, Hastings (Tikicard Series)
Collection of Justine Neal
One of my lasting memories of living at the hotel is the time George Wilder (New Zealand’s wild colonial boy) was rumoured to be hiding out in the hills behind Whakatane. The police search party and their dogs were staying at the hotel. The dogs were housed in one of the sheds in the backyard. Woe betide anyone who thought they might take a shortcut through the yard past that particular shed!

References

Papers Past
Time Gentlemen Please, Whakatane Museum Blog, 17 May 2017
Whakatane Historic Trail, by Anton van der Wouden, 1993.