The Strand - Early Days

The Strand, with wooden seawall and beach, c. 1883 (photographer unknown)
Collection of Tauranga City Library, Pae Korokī Ref. 04-214

In the early days of Tauranga’s European settlement the foreshore extended from about the present Harbourside Restaurant building to the foot of the cliff on which Monmouth Redoubt was built and was known as “The Beach.” Later, when a rough track was formed along the frontage, it became known as Beach Road and, later still, Beach Street. Finally, after the construction of the first wooden seawall plus other improvements, it became The Strand. In 1872 the building of the seawall began. It was built using 3 inch, well cured, kauri planks and extended from Spring Street to Harington Street.

The Strand with wooden seawall, from the Town wharf, probably 1886
Mounted print, photographed by A.A. Ryan, The National Photographic Company
Tauranga Heritage Collection Ref. 0431/08

A letter to the editor of the Bay of Plenty Times 18 May 1891 pointed out the dangerous state of the seawall, especially if an easterly wind was blowing when the sea was washing the earth from between the planks and causing a chain of holes on the outer edge of the Strand immediately behind the seawall and possibly scouring out the soil under the Strand itself.

The Strand, with concrete seawall and reclamation, c. 1902 (photographer unknown)
Collection of Tauranga City Library, Pae Korokī Ref. 04-214

In 1902 a new concrete seawall, built by Joseph Brain extended the Strand further into the harbour and the wooden wall was buried in the process.

The Strand (southern end) with shipping, c. 1910s
Postcard view, photographer (attributed) Mary Humphreys
Collection of Tauranga City Library, Pae Korokī Ref. 04-574

Early streets were made using the materials at hand, shell and shingle from the Mount beaches was barged across the harbour to be put on the roads. In 1906 there was a change in road making with preliminary arrangements being made for the asphalting of the Strand. In 1902 the Borough received a Coronation grant of 200 pounds which enabled the go ahead and completion of the King Edward VII Esplanade and on 8 August the foundation stone was laid by the Mayoress, Mrs Jordan. The new footpath ran along the harbour side of the Strand reclamation and soon became as simply “The Esplanade.” In March 1905 there was great excitement in the town when, with great ceremony, Prime Minister Seddon declared The Esplanade open. The mayor had first invited Seddon to attend and open the completed work in 1902 but the pressure of other work had kept him away till then.

The Strand from the Wharf, Tauranga, c. 1910s
Postcard, photographed by F.G. Radcliffe
Tauranga Heritage Collection Ref. 0147/09

Apparently plane trees were growing along the Strand before the well known palm trees of today. On 8 August 1906 The Bay of Plenty Times reported that at that evenings Borough Council meeting the question of the removal of the plane trees was brought forward by Councillor Bull. His suggestion was that the plane trees should be dug up and planted on the reserve called the police paddock, and palms or other suitable trees to replace the plane trees on The Strand. He also suggested that each councillor donate a palm tree for the purpose mentioned. Votes were even for and against, so the Mayor used his casting vote against the motion. By 1910 the palm trees in cages were featuring in photos of the day.

The Strand with palm trees, c. 1918
Postcard, photographed by W.T. Wilson
Collection of Justine Neal

By 1909 parts of the Strand were lit by gas lamps and in 1936 an ornamental lighting system consisting of twelve lamps was installed in time for Christmas. The Strand was a desirable place to have a business because the coastal ships bringing passengers and freight came in there. On the days the ships berthed the wharf was an incredibly busy place. In the early days cows had the freedom of the borough and at various times could be seen leisurely ambling along the Strand or sunning themselves on the Esplanade. They even occasionally helped themselves to the vegetables displayed outside the greengrocers. In return they efficiently mowed the grass on the streets and kept the trees (perhaps the aforementioned planes) trimmed to a convenient height.

The Strand, Tauranga. c 1920s
Postcard photograph by McLaren
Collection of Justine Neal

Where else could a shop owner hang a “Gone Fishing” sign on the shop door, stroll across the Strand to one of the two wharves for a spot of fishing, and be back behind the counter in minutes if they were really needed. A couple of entrepreneurs set up a business on the Strand selling fresh fish from barrows, snapper at 6d each! When they ran out of fish they’d row out into the harbour to replenish their stock.

In 1924, with the railway bridge linking Matapihi and Tauranga completed, the citizens’ interest turned towards the railway line’s track through the town. Business people wanted it along the Strand but the King Edward VII Esplanade  with its seats, grass, shrubs and the tide lapping the edges was a pleasant place to be and many townspeople did not want it spoilt. They wanted the line to run along Elizabeth Street, but business interests had their way, so the railway embankment along the Strand was built in 1925.

A new era in the life of this ever-changing part of Tauranga was about to begin.

References

Papers Past: Bay of Plenty Times, 18 May 1891 & 8 August 1926
Tauranga Historical Society Journals. No. 17, 28, 59, 78
D. Kahotea, K. Phillips, S. Arabin, Archaeological Survey, Tauranga City Central Business District, Te Papa
Tauranga Heritage Collection
Tauranga City Libraries

Seaward’s Hand-coloured Postcards of Tauranga

Commentary for these images has been kindly provided by Julie and John Green.

In the sixties Tauranga’s Strand Gardens were the showpiece of the Council’s Parks and Reserves Department, who had two dedicated gardeners with a base opposite Guinness Bros. store (No 1 The Strand, now the SunLive offices), just below the Redoubt. The gardens were always immaculate and colourful, and popular with those who walked through it to enjoy the floral displays renewed with each season.

Strand Gardens, Tauranga, N.Z., c. 1950s-early 1960s
Hand-coloured postcard published by N.S. Seaward, Broad Bay, Dunedin
Image courtesy of Fiona Kean, private collection

The bricks of the wishing well were multicoloured, as shown, although somewhat muted. It contained water, but was covered with safety mesh. The railway is behind the flower beds at left, with a taxi stand beyond and adjacent to it.

Tauranga, N.Z., c. 1950s-early 1960s
Hand-coloured postcard published by N.S. Seaward, Broad Bay, Dunedin
Image courtesy of the Tauranga Heritage Collection, Ref. 0283/09

The Strand railway station is just visible beyond and to the right of the conifer. It was only open when the railcar came through on the way to Taneatua. The building at far right is probably the Masonic Hotel (now Masonic Park) and the present day palms are very small and new in this view.

Tauranga, N.Z., c. 1950s-early 1960s
Hand-coloured postcard published by N.S. Seaward, Broad Bay, Dunedin
Image courtesy of Tauranga City Library’s Pae Korokī, Ref. 99-072

Taken from the southern slope of the lower Monmouth Redoubt, the site of Tauranga Moana’s waka, Te Awanui, since the early seventies. The Strand Motel is just visible behind the left of the two buses, at far right.

Tauranga, N.Z., c. 1950s-early 1960s
Hand-coloured postcard published by N.S. Seaward, Broad Bay, Dunedin
Image courtesy of Tauranga City Library’s Pae Korokī, Ref. 99-789

An unusual view of the ever present floral ship, probably taken from the vicinity of the Strand railway station, with No 1 The Strand and the Monmouth Redoubt in the background. The house behind the palm is now occupied by Prime Rentals.

Centennial Swimming Baths, Tauranga, N.Z., c. 1950s-early 1960s
Hand-coloured postcard published by N.S. Seaward, Broad Bay, Dunedin
Image courtesy of Tauranga City Library’s Pae Korokī, Ref. 99-115

I have lovely memories of swimming, skating and playing at Memorial Park. The moat and castle were additions during my childhood. The boats could be hired and were fun but one got blisters on the handles of the paddles and water came inside and wet the seats and our clothes. The Castle was actually on an island in the centre of the rather angular concrete lake. The coloured fountain beside the high tide mark was pretty special at night.

The swimming baths, now known as the Memorial Pools, a skating rink, the Jaycees bumper boat marina with bridge, and the old-fashioned playground complete with tall rocket-slide. Eventually a loco, tractor and Harvard aeroplane were added for all the small – and bigger – boys.

Memorial Park, Tauranga, N.Z., c. 1950s-early 1960s
Hand-coloured postcard published by N.S. Seaward, Broad Bay, Dunedin
Image courtesy of Tauranga City Library’s Pae Korokī, Ref. 99-117

A closer view of the Jaycees project, complete with castle and moat. The model engineers’ miniature train line currently occupies this area.

Gardenhurst, aka Mullanee

by Shirley Arabin and Julie Green

Mullanee (formerly Gardenhurst), Photograph by Shirley Arabin

Recently I visited the house known as Mullanee and earlier as Gardenhurst.  It stands empty among long grass, and the trunks of old exotic trees that have been chopped down to make way for a new highway.  The doors and windows are boarded up as it awaits its fate of demolition or removal.

The house is a single storied weatherboard building with an iron roof.  It began as a cottage with a single gable and ridge line, with a brick chimney that has survived for at least 140 years. An addition with a matching gable was added at some point and then in the twentieth century further additions provided a kitchen dining area on the west side and a large living room on the east. The complete interior has been modernised, probably in the 1960s, with the interior walls lined with wall board and wallpapered. The only interior features that may have remained unchanged are the interior wooden doors. As well as additions to the house, rooms were also removed and used for other purposes. 

A member of the last family to own the land believed it began its European occupation as a Crown Grant to a militia veteran, but that is an item for further research. This house could well be one of the earliest European houses extant in Tauranga.

Richard Henry Farrar, c.1863-1864, Dublin
Image courtesy of the family

The first mention of Gardenhurst in the newspaper occurred when R H Farrer wrote to the editor concerning the supply of town milk from his dairy farm of that name. He also supplied vegetables to the town. Farrer’s occupancy ended not long after for he died in September 1883 aged 60 years. An Irishman from Queen’s County (since 1922 known as County Laois), who served with the 18^th Royal Irish Regiment, Farrer arrived in New Zealand on the Lady Jocelyn in 1878 with the George Vesey Stewart settlers. Mrs Farrer still resided in Gardenhurst in January 1884 as the newspaper acknowledged that she donated two books to the Mechanics Institute.

By 1885 William V and Charles F Tuthill and J P Whelan were partners in Gardenhurst Farm until William Tuthill withdrew from the partnership the following year.  In June 1889 R C Jordan rented 300 acres from Mr Tuthill, on 150 of which the Maori were to grow wheat. Several stock auctions were held on the property including one of Mr Jordan’s “live and dead stock” in June 1891 when he proposed to move closer to town to live and carry on his businesses. R C Jordan had a varied career in Tauranga as contractor, engineer, surveyor, founder of the Judea saleyards, and Mayor of Tauranga twice.

Plan from Title Deed

In July 1892 Gardenhurst lots 78 and 83 Te Papa comprising 300 acres with an eight-room dwelling went under the hammer of D Lundon, Auctioneer at the Haymarket in Devonport Road. The purchasers were the sons of Mr John Thomas Bull the postmaster who had recently bought Topcroft.  

In 1897 the property changed hands again to a Mr Howard, formerly of Johannesburg and was described as in Omanawa Road. It was during his time that an extensive garden was planted including the exotic trees that have recently been felled. There were oaks, chestnut, cypress, the ginko, camellia, a plum tree, and a huge persimmon.

Photograph by Julie Green

Howard sold the property in 1901 to Charles Turner Wallis previously of Hokianga who called for tenders for alterations to the house immediately. In 1908 Wallis died of typhoid fever at the age of forty-eight, leaving a wife and eight children under fourteen. Mrs Wallis and her sons Roland (Roy) aged fourteen when his father died and Marshall aged nine worked the farm.  Mrs Wallis suffered a significant loss when her milking shed and equipment were destroyed by fire and she was uninsured.  The Council had engaged with Mrs Wallis concerning land to be taken for a road but when she saw the agreement did not include matters verbally suggested she withdrew from the arrangement. Mrs Margaret Wallis died aged 96 in 1957 but after being farmed by Roy and Marshall for many years the property was sold.

Photograph by Julie Green

As a returned soldier from WW2 Samuel William Gilmer, a shepherd from Gisborne qualified for a rehabilitation loan and with that he bought the farm from the Wallis family. Sam and his brother Hugh farmed the land and brought their father, also Hugh up from Gisborne. Marshall Wallis continued to live in the house and the Gilmers lived in a tent for some years. The Gilmers called the property Mullanee after the place in Ireland Mullahanee from where the family originated. In 1967 they built a brick house nearer the road for Hugh senior and that later became the home of his grandson David Gilmer and his family and their horticultural business. Later Sam and David Gilmer swapped houses with the last occupant being Sam’s grandson and his family. After Sam Gilmer gave up dairying Richard (Dick) Smith took over the farm and subdivided parcels of land that have become Westridge Views, Takitimu Toll Road, and New Zealand Transit Agency Waka Kotahi property for highway extension.

Sources:

Bay of Plenty Times through Papers Past. https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/

Tauranga 1882-1982 The Centennial of the Gazetting Tauranga as a Borough. Edit. A C Bellamy. TCC 1982

Interview with David Gilmer by Julie Green

Peace Garden at Hopukiore – Mount Drury Reserve

From Tauranga City Library’s archives
A monthly blog about interesting items in our collection

The original peace garden at the junction of Maunganui Road and Grace Avenue, beside Hopukiore - Mount Drury, was a joint project between Altrusa Club of Mount Maunganui and Tauranga District Council. 

75th Anniversary of Altrusa International, Inc. club community milestone project. Tauranga City Libraries Ams 291.

The project that celebrated both ten years since the Mount Maunganui group chartered to the women’s civic organisation, and 75 years of Altrusa International’s commitment to ‘improving economic well-being and quality of life’ through community service and literacy. Ams 291, in the Tauranga City Library Archives, contains plans, planting schemes and clippings about the peace garden.

The Mayor Keith Clarke, was invited to the birthday dinner on Monday 13 April 1992, with publicity releases sent to Mount / Pāpāoma Times, Bay of Plenty Times and Bay News, and Annabelle White, food columnist, confirmed as the after dinner speaker.

Plans for the peace garden were drawn up with Roel Koopman, from the Tauranga District Council, and featured cobble stone areas, seating and garden planting.

Plans for Peace Garden, 75^th Anniversary of Altrusa International, Inc. Tauranga City Libraries Ams 291.

In June an update on the project was submitted to the International Anniversary Chairman District Fifteen Governor. Periodic Detention workers, under council supervision, had erected the timber pergolas, and the peace roses were on order. The “plans are nearer to completion”, although the raffle with a diamond theme to raise funds hadn’t sold out but was “a really good start of our fund raising”. Club members and local residents were “enthusiastic” to see the garden completed.

On 1 November 1992 the newly completed Peace Garden was dedicated. A Mount and Papamoa Times article from the following Thursday included pictures of Altrusa members and painting of the fence (but unfortunately no view of the pergola and paving). Speakers included Mrs Gail Gerrand, President of the club, Christine Mora, chairperson of the project committee, and Mayor Clarke, who all agreed that the garden was a ‘lasting and meaningful gift to the community for years to come’. 

The archive collection includes annual reports and public relations scrapbooks for the Altrusa Club of Mount Maunganui, and their last project in March 2007, ‘Magic Mums’.

But what happened to the garden after that? Sandra Simpson wrote in the Bay of Plenty Times, 27 August 2010, that Tauranga City Council were ‘reclaiming’ the site to extend the children’s play area, and members of the disbanded Mount Maunganui branch were “thrilled” Ned Nicely, the council city parks co-ordinator, offered a new site on the ocean side of the reserve. Gail Gerrand, is photographed sitting next to the new Marine Parade garden of native plants – the peace roses deemed unsuitable for the more exposed site. A rata tree was to be planted in the centre on Saturday by Tauranga MP Simon Bridges.
Thoughts from Altrusa Tauranga president Fern Nielsen conclude the article “the first garden was a “much-used oasis of peace and pleasure”, and hopes the new one will achieve the same ambience, with its backdrop of pohutukawa, the green slopes of Hopukiore and the sound of the ocean.”

Sources: 

Altrusa International. (2018m July). The history of Altrusa. https://www.altrusa.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/The-History-of-Altrusa.pdf

Simpson, S. (2010, August 27). Opening ceremony marks return of floral ‘oasis’. Bay of Plenty Times. p. 28. 

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This archival item is on our schedule for digitisation, and will be added to Pae Korokī once digitised. For more information about other items in our collection, visit Pae Korokī or email the Heritage & Research Team: Research@tauranga.govt.nz

Written by Kate Charteris, Heritage Specialist at Tauranga City Libraries.

Alfred Brown, the Gardener

One of Tauranga's First  English-style Gardens

A view of Brown's garden from the south c1897
Cabinet card photograph by Thomas E. Price, Tauranga

Alfred Nesbit Brown (1803-1884) was one of Tauranga’s first European residents who helped establish the Church Mission Society Te Papa Station in the 1830s. It is obvious from entries in his journal that along with organising temporary shelter for his and other missionary families, a high priority was to set out a garden with specimen trees and crops of fruit, berries, vegetables, nuts and grains.

The Archdeacon's Sentinels in the 1960s

Their home was what is now known as The Elms and in the grounds there are still at least 5 large trees planted by him in the early 19th Century. Seed from Norfolk pines was reputedly obtained in Sydney on their voyage out and two young trees were planted in such a way as to become navigational aids for ships entering the Tauranga Harbour. Later they were known as the Archdeacon’s Sentinels and appeared on Admiralty charts into the 20th Century.

Spring view of Brown's 190 year-old oak

Acorns were brought from “home” in England and a young oak grown during the Brown’s years in the Bay of Islands was transplanted to a corner of the garden in what was to become their permanent home for nearly 50 years. It is now a magnificent tree of almost 200 years and the size of many much older back in the old country.

At some time later an English chestnut was introduced, maybe as a food source, and there are presently three large specimens in this 5 star-rated garden of national significance.

A garden fete under the Bunya pine, c 1900

It became very desirable to plant exotic symmetrical pines in Victorian times and therefore a Bunya pine from Queensland was a valuable addition to Alfred’s growing arboretum. It still continues to grow taller even though it has now been there on the front lawn for over 150 years.

Apart from mostly deciduous trees which also included many elms, some ash and Stone pines a lot of time and energy was expended on food-bearing plants. From writings by Brown and his various houseguests, we can build up a picture of the tremendous variety of plantings and crops that were established.

The chestut to the left, a young elm to the right

There were various nut trees, apart from the chestnut, walnuts, hazelnuts and almonds. Fruit trees included a Kentish cherry, a peach orchard and many apples including their son Marsh’s crabapple. Hedges were hawthorne, elderberry and gorse. Vines included grapes, passionfruit, and melons. There were all types of berries including blackcurrants. The many vegetables included potatoes, kumara, pumpkins, turnips and carrots. There were six acres of wheat and corn was also cultivated. The flower gardens included many roses, aloes, sweet peas and bulbs.

All in all it was obviously an amazing place and undoubtedly a huge effort not only by Brown and his family but also many other people living at or associated with Te Papa. If you have never taken a trip to The Elms/Te Papa, I can recommend it as a lovely place to spend time at: elms.org.nz

Sources
Garden booklet prepared by Elms Guide Beverley Corbett (unpublished)
The Elms garden image collection

Elva's Garden

Image courtesy of Tauranga Heritage Collection Ref. 2005-0245

A photograph, taken in the 1960’s, shows 233 Cameron Road situated on an already busy intersection. The house is almost a public space, with unobstructed views into the front of the property.

Image courtesy of Tauranga Heritage Collection Ref. 2004-0554

The inquisitive eye would see a front garden of formality and order. An encaustic tile path joining the front gate to front step with geometric precision. The clipped twin camellias, the imposing centrally positioned front door and identical front windows adding to the Victorian symmetry.

Perhaps to regain a sense of privacy and quiet containment, Elva cultivated her back garden to be one of charm, colour and intimacy. The images shown here, taken between January 1965 and May 1966, reveal a rather inward looking and private space.

The informal planting style, with unrestrained free flowing plants, is typical of the cottage garden. A trellis fence defines a long herbaceous border, the geometry softened by cascading pastel coloured roses. Underplantings are old fashioned favourites - white daisies, perennial phlox and pink geraniums. Further along the garden, tall orange dahlias and bronzed leafed begonias add colour and vibrancy.

Garden adornments show an eclectic style. A white painted adirondack chair draws the eye into the adjoining orchard. A red tyre, cut in half and filled with plants, is placed in the herbaceous border. The other half, containing succulents, is part of a pot plant collection that decorates the back porch.

Elva chooses to record her cats, one inanimate but fiercely hunting, the other soft with tail erect and showing a slight interest in the flower bed. Elva watches intently. Gertrude Jekyll’s description of a cat as ‘ the perfect garden companion’ comes to mind.

The white concrete swan, crafted by Tauranga man Peter McTainsh  is favoured by Elva in these images. It appears in six photos and is positioned as the focal point in different parts of the garden. One photo shows the swan with two Crown Lynn ceramic companions settled on a lake of daisies.

But it is the photograph taken in August 1965 that is most revealing. Elva’s deep sense of place, her turangawaewae, shows in her facial expression and bearing as she stands with her husband in the garden her parents began seventy-five years previously.

Grateful thanks to Fiona Kean, Tauranga Heritage Collection and to Shirley Arabin for assistance in the preparation of the images.

Anne Marquand
February 2020

Image courtesy of Brain Watkins House Collection except where stated otherwise

The Elms TECT Heritage Garden

The Elms TECT Heritage Garden was opened to the public on Saturday 15 February 2020. At the official opening The Elms Foundation Chairperson, Ian Thomas, spoke of the project’s complexity and its many contributors. He acknowledged Ngai Tamarawaho of Ngati Ranginui and Ngati Tapu of Ngai Te Rangi as holders of the site’s mana whenua. He spoke of the significant financial support given by TECT and highlighted the designers and artists who entwined the strands of many stories to create a beautiful garden and pavilion. For those present it was immediately clear that the many hands, heads and hearts that worked on this project have created something very special.

The pavilion was designed by Justin Matthews and built by Canam Construction
Image: Fiona Kean, private collection.

The following information is taken from Ian Thomas’s speech at the opening.

“The pavilion design is inspired by the original raupō whare built by tangata whenua for Archdeacon Alfred Brown and Charlotte Brown to reside in when they settled in 1838. The proportions of the structure closely approximate those described by missionaries at the time. Also, the laminated timber beams have been stained to reflect the colour of raupo when it is dried … The roof is influenced by the architecture of the earliest CMS stations in the Bay of Islands. The gabled front gradually changes to a skillion at the opposite end. Both roof profiles were prevalent in mission buildings of the far north. They can also be seen across The Elms site today.”

A view of the garden designed by John Adams and implemented by Elms custodians Troy Edgecumbe and Rosie Burr
Image: Fiona Kean, private collection

“In respect to the garden, a Scottish landscape designer by the name of John Claudius Loudon provided the inspiration. In simple terms, Loudon believed a garden should be a work of art to be admired for its distinctive characteristics. Interestingly his style was reflected in the development of Te Papa’s mission garden from its earliest inception. Evidence of that is a well-used copy of his Encyclopaedia of Gardening which is sitting in Alfred Brown’s library today.

“An element of Loudon’s style was geometric shaped garden beds, which we see with the oval bed around the pavilion. Indeed, this new oval garden bed in effect recreates a feature that existed here in the 1840s, and was lovingly tended by Alfred’s daughter Celia, but has been lost from the site with the passage of time. Within the oval bed are plants of functional and ornamental value, all with botanical and historical interest. There is a blend of native and exotic varieties into what is a bicultural design.”

One of several information panels that explain the pavilion, garden and carving design as well as the significance of the site
Image: Fiona Kean, private collection

Master carver Whare Thompson standing beside one of his carvings which adorn the pavilion
Image: Fiona Kean, private collection

A raparapa, the end projection of the maihi bargeboard. The figure of the raparapa is known as a manaia. The wood for the carvings came from the piles of the old Town Wharf. The master carver Whare Thompson has kept evidence of the shipworms which at one time attacked the wood.
Image: Fiona Kean, private collection