The White House in Ōtūmoetai

 

The 75-year old home today.  Image: Julie Green

Last year I was privileged to meet the occupants of this wonderful home, constructed in 1950 and sited a little back from the road, near Ōtūmoetai Primary School. They had a diesel-powered central heating system which no longer functioned well.  After considering their options they offered their vintage technology to the Tauranga Heritage Collection. This was not a suitable home for such an item so help was instead sought from Tauranga’s Vintage Farm Machinery Club. Through the kind efforts of one of their members the problems with the heater were overcome and it fired up once again.

 The family was very grateful to be able to use the heater last winter and is preparing to light it again as the cold weather closes in this year. I have enjoyed several visits to their lovely home and have permission to share with you this recent picture and a few older images in their possession.

William Barnard’s home and orchard in 1954. Photographer unknown

The home was built for Labour MP for Napier William( Bill ) Barnard after he retired from politics and moved to Tauranga to join his son-in-law in legal practice in 1948. He was Mayor here from 1950-52 and very involved in community affairs. One of the rooms upstairs was designated as a library and even though the shelving is long gone there are obvious lines on the walls where the shelves were attached.  Bill and his family had less than a decade of living there before he passed away in Auckland in 1958 at the age of 72.

The framed photograph below hangs on the wall of the upstairs landing.  It gives us a great idea of the topography in Ōtūmoetai prior to the development of the whole Bellevue area. You can make out the entrance of the Wairoa River, the curve of the railway line around the perimeter of  Bethlehem and the Matua Saltmarsh, and the farms which became the college in 1965 and, in 1967, the intermediate school.

Bellevue and Bethlehem in their agricultural days. Photographer unknown

The primary school is nestled in behind the row of dark trees to the left of centre. The area across the road, that now includes a fuel station, housing and the telephone exchange, appears to have been just a rough field when this photograph was taken. 

There has been a succession of owners over the home’s 75-year history. Not much is presently known about them but there have been several extensions at the back and side, dormer windows have been added to the attic space and the kitchen/dining area has been refurbished. There is now another home built in what was the front yard and of course the old orchard has become covered in dwellings also. But the old homestead stands tall and proud and is much loved by its present owners.

Very recently a former occupant arrived on their doorstep with an unframed painting and asked if they would like it. Of course the present owners agreed - it was very welcome. They intend to frame and hang it as part of the growing record of the story of their home.

“THE WHITE HOUSE,  Otumoetai”. Artist unknown

All images in this post were taken by Julie Green, courtesy of the owners.

TT in Te Puna, 1961

 

Motorcycle road race, 24 January 1961, group on truck

Image: Te Ao Marama Photo gca-523

On Te Puna’s busy roads of today, it is hard to believe that for a Saturday afternoon in January 1961, two of its most important thoroughfares were closed.  And not for the first time – the Tauranga Motorcycle Club had been able to do this since 1955, just before my family arrived in Te Puna.  The family in the photo above is still to be identified, but the image shows the cheerful interest that was taken in these races, described in combative terms: “thrilling duel”, “battle”, “challenger”, “desperate effort”.  Road races, on real roads, were the stuff of drama.

By 1961, Te Puna Road had been tar sealed but was significantly narrower than it is today.  Its long, flattish stretch from the main highway provided starting and finishing straights for a series of motorcycle races, “conducted under ideal conditions [and] watched by a good crowd”. [1]

You can find the starting line today.  It was at the entryway to number 78, Te Puna Road.

"Competitors in the 500 c.c. race at the Tauranga Motorcycle Club's Road race meeting at Te Puna at the weekend being briefed while lined up on the grid awaiting the start.  The winner, F. Cardon (Auckland) is nearest camera, No. 5."

Image: Te Ao Marama Photo gca540

This was probably not the only start-point, however.  The NZ Lightweight TT race ran over 20 miles, which by my calculation of the route used meant a half-lap had to be accommodated somewhere.  The TT (standing for “Tourist Trophy”, a term of art in the motorcycling world) probably began at the corner of Borell and Snodgrass Roads, where there still is a short straight to roar off on, then down over the railway bridge and uphill for a mild left turn into Armstrong Road before its chicanes taxed the riders’ skills.  After that, they went for five further laps before the finish line outside number 78 on Te Puna Road.

All the other roads, in 1961, were surfaced with metal from the Te Puna Quarry.  Pink/grey rhyolite, ready to crumble and turn to dust, but in “ideal conditions” skiddy, slidy fun stuff to zoom along on - as long as you were ahead of the pack.  But not even then. In 1961, the leading contender in the 350 cc race, F. Cardon, had to retire when “a stone dropped down the venturi mouth of his carburettor.”

The longer, 32-mile races, took seven circuits for the 350 cc and 500 cc racing bikes.  In 1961, the winner of the 350 cc class, J. Farnsworth, set “a new lap record of 3.29s” over the 3.7 mile circuit.  Less than a mile a minute on average: given the twists and turns of the route, this must have meant some crazy speeds on the straights.

It also meant a thrilling afternoon for the “good crowd”.  Haybales lined the corner of Borell Road, just after the other, Te Puna Road, railway bridge; at George and Bubbles Waterman’s chook farm on Snodgrass Road; and at Armstrong Road, where Alistair Clark’s house still stands.  This was a counter-clockwise circuit, with left-hand turns all the way.

F. Cardon, winner of the 500 cc race at Te Puna in 1961, negotiates the transition from loose metal back to tar seal at the corner of Armstrong and Te Puna Roads

Image: Te Ao Marama, Photo gca541

Spectators lined the route, and I imagine (I was always at the start/finish line) that another landmark Te Puna property, Rex Williams’ farm, famous for Rex’s collection of machinery and variously-powered engines, provided a vantage point for knowledgeable enthusiasts, later to be known as petrol-heads.

Motorcycle road racing seems not to have lasted in Tauranga much beyond 1961.  Images in the Photo News, which came to Tauranga in 1962, show cross-country races on the Papamoa Hills and the startup of Bay Park.  Its editor would surely have included a road-race story if one had happened.  These days, the Tauranga Motorcycle Club does its racing off-road, at the TECT Park.  A very different landscape to the placid pastorale of 1950’s Te Puna, which tolerated – on the evidence, actively enjoyed – having its peace and rights of way destroyed for a summer afternoon’s excitement.

"THRILLING DUEL. F Cardon (No. 5) and J Farnsworth (No. 27) battle for the lead in the 350 c.c. racing class at the Tauranga motorcycle club's road race meeting at Te Puna on Saturday.  Farnsworth won the race, Cardon retiring after a stone lodged in his carburettor venturi."

Image: Te Ao Marama, Photo gca524

Notes

[1] Bay of Plenty Times, Monday January 23 1961, p. 3.  All quotes used are taken from this article and accompanying photograph captions.

 Jack Costello and the Union Fish and Ice Company, Chapel Street Tauranga

Site for Costello Seafoods Ltd. Sulphur Point, Tauranga c 1968. Jack Costello holds first marker peg, while fisherman Don Shattock drives it in with an axe.
Description and image courtesy of Te Ao Mārama - Tauranga City Libraries Photo 11-152

 In 1930 a retired Union Steamship Company captain, Roslyn King Clark, and his sister set up a fish curing business on the shore of the Waikareao Estuary. The Union Fish and Ice Company made hundred-weight blocks of ice in a concrete tower* and these were let down through a trapdoor to waiting trucks. 

Page 28 of the Bay of Plenty Yearbook 1955, Astra Publicity, courtesy of John Green.

 In 1938 fish retailer W.J. ( Bill ) Costello of Rotorua was the owner of a trawler operating out of Tauranga.  This was a former steam vessel, Marina, converted to a motor vessel three years previously. It was not a success due to high maintenance costs. His next boat, the Katoa, was holed off Town Point at Maketu on VJ Day, 15 August 1945 and was a total loss. 

Aerial view of Chapel St reclamation. The Union Fish and Ice Company is at the top left, its small jetty just visible at the harbour’s edge.
Image from Bay of Plenty Yearbook 1955, Astra Publicity, courtesy of John Green.

 Bill’s son Jack had served his time as a boilermaker in Rotorua but began his fishing career when he and his parents bought the Union Fish and Ice Company and their processing plant on the corner of Marsh and Chapel Streets for £3,500 in 1947. Prior to the 1959 construction of the Chapel Street road bridge, Costello’s trawlers operated from the wharf next to the plant, sailing under the Waikareao rail bridge to access the main harbour and open sea beyond.  

Trawler “Vanguard” discharging catch onto Costello’s Bedford truck at Fisherman’s Wharf, 1950s
Image courtesy of Te Ao Mārama - Tauranga City Libraries Photo 11-164

 Within two years they had expanded their fleet to three  —  Vanguard, Golden Gate and Sea Ranger. Jack bought his parents out so as to have full control of the operation. The catches brought in on their three vessels had outstripped local demand so he designed and built a blast freezer and sent the frozen fillets to Australia. By 1955 he had amalgamated with fishing giant Sanfords Ltd on reclaimed land in Cross Road, Sulphur Point with the proviso that he manage it for 10 years. In 1967, once his term was over, he negotiated with the Tauranga Harbour Board for a new site. His modern fish processing plant was erected nearby and named Costello’s Seafoods.

 

70-foot purse seiner “Valkyrie”, complete with pipe band on board, at her commissioning ceremony.  Built for Costello’s Union Fish and Ice Company in 1964.
Image courtesy of Te Ao Mārama - Tauranga City Libraries Photo 11-162

By 1971, Sanfords planned to build their own modern plant next door but the depressed fish export market at the time resulted in Costellos’ selling their assets to Sanfords and once again appointing Jack as managing director there until 1975, and then as an advisor for a further three years.

 

Costello’s Seafoods, Sulphur Point 1969.  

Image courtesy of Te Ao Mārama - Tauranga City Libraries Photo 11-157

Following this he moved to Auckland where he set up several more businesses, including two coolstores —  later sold to Sanfords. Jack then moved back to Tauranga and got into property development before leaving for the Gold Coast, Australia in 1981. He passed away over there in 1998, well respected and remembered for his efforts to establish a competitive and successful fishing industry in Tauranga area.

 * The tower was finally removed when the Marsh Street flyover was constructed in 2008

The Pilot House on Mauao

 
Pilot House on the slopes of Mauao, Mount Maunganui, c. 1950s
Collection of Te Ao Mārama  - Tauranga City Libraries, Pae Korokī Ref. Photo 99-243

Access by sea has always been important to Tauranga since the first European ship, the Herald, entered the harbour in 1826. The barriers of the Kaimai Range and a swampy strip of land between hills and sea prohibited any form of transport except on foot for many years.

By the time the Land Wars ceased, there had been an increase in the number and size of ships entering the harbour, and several had been wrecked or grounded on sand banks. In December 1864 the Auckland Provincial Government appointed Thomas Sparrow Carmichael as pilot for Tauranga and provided him with a tent to live in on Maunganui, as Mauao was generally referred to in those days. He had two boatmen to row him out to the ships as they waited offshore.

By 1866 the Provincial Government built a house for the pilot and another for the boatmen. Little is known about these buildings and their exact locations. One theory is that it might have been uphill above the Pilot Wharf, where they would have access to their boat, and the more likely theory, nearer to the location of the second pilot house built above the present camping ground, with a view out to sea. Ships needing a pilot would fire off a gun to signal their presence. The pilot then raised a flag to notify the townspeople that the entry of a ship was imminent.

With the end of the Land Wars, the decline in provisions and other goods needed for the military noticeably reduced the volume of ships into Tauranga and, after six years, Carmichael’s position was terminated. The money saved from upkeep was spent on building wharves on The Strand. However, after a few years, and growth in population of the town, an official decision was made to re-establish the position of pilot and in 1873 an experienced master, Captain Hannibal Marks, took over. By then, the original pilot house was in a state of “rack and ruin”.^[i]

Pilot House, Mauao, Mount Maunganui, April 1955
Collection of Te Ao Mārama  - Tauranga City Libraries, Pae Korokī Ref. Photo 04-625

The Auckland Provincial Council approved payment of £200 for a new Pilot House in June 1874 and a second house for the son and family.^[ii] Captain Marks and his son, also called Hannibal, were drowned when the pilot boat capsized in the harbour in August 1879. Following the death of Hannibal Marks the Marine Department appointed Captain Best, formerly of Thames, to the position of Harbour Master and Pilot.^[iii] He appeared to have occupied the Pilot House in the Domain, as the newspaper recorded the Presbyterian Picnic as gathering on the beach behind Captain Best’s house. During all of this excitement, the pilot himself was watching for the arrival of the Lady Jocelyn, the first immigrant ship to arrive directly at Tauranga.^[iv] Stormy weather caused the loss of the “iron chimney” on the Pilot House in 1881. This was probably a chimney made of two facing sheets of corrugated iron inside a timber frame, a style common in early buildings.

Grace Earle & Violet Petheridge seated on a cow, Mauao, Mount Maunganui, 1920
Collection of Te Ao Mārama  - Tauranga City Libraries, Pae Korokī Ref. Photo 05-456

With the cessation of the pilot service, the house fell empty, and it was suggested that it be handed over from the Marine Department to the Tauranga Improvement Society to use as holiday accommodation for visitors to the beach. The idea was even floated that Mount Maunganui become a destination for invalids like the sanatoriums at Te Puke and Rotorua.^[v] Although there was some enthusiasm for transferring ownership of the Pilot House reserve to the Borough Council, it eventually became the property of the Harbour Board like the nearby Mount Drury (Hopukiore). The Harbour Board repaired the roof and part of the house several times, and the Pilot House reserve was fenced, with some camp sites made available. Various people leased the Pilot House and reserve for raising poultry, solely for the accommodation or, as occurred in March 1933, for a returned soldier from the First World War and his family with their four donkeys.^[vi] The cottage had been described as kauri, having five rooms with electricity and a tank water supply with a four-roomed second cottage alongside. The whole property totaled one and a half acres.^[vii]

Pilot House and Mount Drury (Hopukiore), c. 1950s
Collection of Te Ao Mārama  - Tauranga City Libraries, Pae Korokī Ref. Photo 99-244

The new tenant Fred Davies, with his family, and the donkeys called Smithy, Murphy, Brownie and Snowy, were to be a drawcard for the Mount Main Beach for the next twenty years. Fred named the donkeys after his mates who died at Gallipoli. He also built a corrugated iron shop opposite the Oceanside Hotel selling ice cream and soft drinks. The Davies sons supervised the donkey rides and when they left school their mother took over, until 1952 when she moved out of the Pilot House to her new home in Marine Parade.^[viii] The visit of the young Sel Neal in 1951 shows a building with a rusting roof and deteriorating cladding. Thus ended occupation of the Tauranga Pilot House. The house stood for a few more years but is missing from images taken in the 1960s, and the second house is recorded as being demolished in 1964.^[ix]

Sel Neal, age 9 with a donkey, at the Pilot House, Mauao, Mount Maunganui, 1951
Collection of Justine Neal

References

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^[i] Bay of Plenty Times (BOPT), 9 May 1874

^[ii] Daily Southern Cross, 13 Jun 1874

^[iii] BOPT, 4 Sep 1879

^[iv] BOPT, 4 Jan 1881

^[v] BOPT, 25 Jul 1887

^[vi] BOPT, 5 Mar 1933

^[vii] BOPT , 9 Sep 1930

^[viii] Neal, Justine, The Donkeys of Ocean Beach, Historical Review, Bay of Plenty Journal of History, Vol 64, No.1, May 2016, p19

^[ix] Cunningham, B. & Musgrave, K., A History of Mount Maunganui, Commissioned by Mount Maunganui Borough Council, 1989, p. 18